For spot treatments like the upholstered furniture, apply PRECOR 2000. It comes out as a light aerosol that can be sprayed lightly over these areas. Ideally suited for furniture, tiled flooring and even carpets, Precor 2000 will kill both the adults and egg stages.

Now since it’s an aerosol, you’ll need to use it 1-2 a month till the problem is gone. So if you want something more “permanent”, go with the once a year FIRST DEFENSE which is a dry, granular product ideal for carpeting. It can be applied under cushions too but since it won’t kill adults, the Precor 2000 should be sprayed over the top to help with current activity. The big advantage with this product is that it will last up to a year or more making it easy to use and very efficient.

Lastly, setting out some FLEA TRAPS in the home can really help. They’ll monitor the areas alerting you to any problem areas you may have missed during the treatment. They’ll also catch a bunch of fleas which will no doubt make it easier for your pets and anyone living in the home. And these traps can last for years so you can keep them working as your first line of defense for future issues.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Precor 2000: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/precor-2000

First Defense: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/first-defense-20-ounce-jar

Flea Trap:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/electric/flea-trap

Flea Article: http://www.flea.net/flea-control

Forget the spray and aerosol products. If you take some time to read through our FLEA CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll learn several key things to get rid of fleas in the basements or any part of the home and right now you’re doing all the “wrong” things.

First and foremost, removing the pet from the area is usually the worse thing you can do. Once removed, the fleas will do nothing but lay dormant waiting. And since they can stay in their third stage for several months, the problem can remain for up to a year if you leave it the way it’s been. Pupae fleas don’t have to hatch. And they won’t unless they know food is close by. So when the pet or people are no longer around, they’ll just sit there waiting.

And since no spray can kill the pupae, all the ones down there will just wait and live no matter how much you spray.

Second, you’ll need something appropriate for the floor and rarely is this a spray or aerosol. This is especially true for bad problems. In our article there are two options that work great for basements.

If the area is carpeted, you’ll need to put out the ONCE A YEAR FLEA GRANULES. But if it’s cement, you’ll need to dust with DRIONE. And immediately afterwards you’ll have to set out 2-3 FLEA TRAPS.

The Flea Traps will be key because they’ll be perceived by the flea pupae as a small pet. This will get them to hatch which in turn will break the cycle. But until you get them all to hatch AND have a good treatment in place so when they hatch they can’t continue the cycle, this problem will go on forever like it’s been doing.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

First Defense: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/first-defense-20-ounce-jar

Drione:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust

Flea Trap:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/electric/flea-trap

Flea Article: http://www.flea.net/flea-control

If you read our FLEA CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll learn fleas will gladly hitch a ride on any person that comes close to them. So if you have cats living under your house with fleas, they no doubt forage around the house and when they do, fleas will dispersed everywhere they go. In other words, they’ll be dropping flea eggs, pupae and adults where they walk. And this means when you pass a location where they’ve been, you no doubt will be in the range of getting a flea to jump on you.

At this point the flea will stay with you as long as they’re comfortable. So when you go inside, they’ll probably stick on you till you relax on a chair or couch or bed. So seeing them in your bed is no surprise and to be expected as long as you have cats living under the house and no flea treating is being done outside where it no doubt most matters.

To stop the problem, you’ll have to treat the key nesting locations (where the fleas are reproducing). This is true whether you get rid of the cats or not. You see, fleas will most likely thrive where a bunch of cats are living but they don’t need them to survive; they’d do fine on their own. So even if you were to remove the cats, you’ll still have the fleas and you’ll still have to treat. This is why almost half of our customers are people who don’t have pets!

So how do you need to treat? Several options listed in our article could be employed given your situation. For starters, I’d get as much of the are under the home treated. If you cannot access the area directly, use a HOSE END sprayer to spray the ESFENVALERATE and NYLAR. Do this every month and once the problem is under control, you can move to a once a quarter treatment so they don’t return.

For the home, I’d start with nothing more than some FLEA TRAPS. This way you can monitor the activity inside to determine if you do in fact have to treat. In our article we talk about vacuuming hardwood floors as a sure way to get rid of any adults, eggs and pupae so if you follow that regime, you should be able to keep them under wraps without having to spray. But if your traps start picking up more than 1-2 fleas a week, it would mean you’ve got something happening inside which would warrant a treatment.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Flea Control Article: http://www.flea.net/flea-control

Hose End Sprayer:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/sprayers/gilmour-20g-390

Esfenvalerate:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/conquer-esfenvalerate

Nylar:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/igr/igr-nylar

Flea Trap: http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/electric/flea-trap

If you take some time to review our FLEA CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll see we make no mention of “bombs” as a viable way to treat any flea problem. That’s because they don’t work. All they’ll do is kill exposed fleas and as our article explains, adult fleas only live a few days and die so killing them won’t help the problem. The reason you have a problem is because there are lots of eggs and pupae throughout the home which need to be controlled if want them gone. And as our article explains, you’ll need to treat with some of our sprays or ONCE A YEAR FLEA POWDER if your trying to get rid of them as these are the only good products to use for existing problems. Personally I prefer the Powder because it’s easy to use, works so well on carpets and you only have to apply it once a year. Combined with some FLEA TRAPS set up in the home and you’ll have all you need to break the flea cycle within a few weeks.

Now if you have reason to believe there are in fact fleas inside the walls, you could treat them with PYGANIC DUST. This could be injected using a HAND DUSTER but following the treatment, you should seal the wall voids up to prevent any pet from having access. In fact, the only way fleas could be in the walls would be if you had a dog or cat going up inside them. As our article explains, flea eggs will fall off pets and other animals as they move around the home. So in most cases, the eggs will land on carpeting and furniture where the fleas will further develop. But they won’t move into wall voids and there is no way they could get there unless the pet was going there so there is a good chance no fleas are there now and no such treatment is needed.

So in summary, make sure the home and pet are treated as explained in our article. If you follow these guidelines using the products we have listed in our article, you’ll break the flea cycle no matter how bad it is.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Flea Control Artilce:  http://www.flea.net/flea-control

Once A Year Flea Powder:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page23.html

Flea Traps:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page22.html

Pyganic Dust:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/pyganic_dust.html

Hand Duster:  http://www.gotosprayer.com/dusters/hand-dusters/crusader-hand-duster

This is a tough one. There are two options that will work but really, you should treat and at the same time take measures to keep the cats out for good. Such areas can harbor all kinds of pests. These pests pose all kinds of hazards to your cats. Additionally, the electricity back there poses a whole other set of hazards so this direct access needs to be sealed up so they cannot get inside.

As for what product to use; there are two mentioned in our FLEA CONTROL ARTICLE which would serve you well. The DRIONE DUST would be a great option. It can be dusted in the area and because it’s light and “smokey”, it will permeate throughout insuring good coverage. The dust will no doubt get to all the areas and as it settles, it will take care of all exposed stages of fleas in the area.

Another option you could use would be the PRECOR 2000 AEROSOL. It too would permeate throughout the space well and should take care of all stages.

After treating, installing a flea trap would be smart. This would help “collect” any rogue fleas and prevent them from migrating out into the living space.

I also strongly recommend setting up some more Flea Traps in the home to monitor the rest of the house. If more activity is noted, treating the house would certainly be warranted. This is a bad year for fleas and it will only get worse as the fall arrives unless you take precautionary measures now.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Flea Control Article:  http://www.flea.net/flea-control

Drione Dust:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1698.html

Precor 2000:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page246.html

It’s rare that fleas could or would even try to live their lives on people. As explained in our FLEA CONTROL ARTICLE, fleas prefer a host which can supply blood and provide a sheltered environment for them to hide. Dogs, cats and other hairy animals can provide both a blood meal and lots of hair; lots to eat and lots of areas for adequate housing. For this reason most fleas prefer these animals on which to live. But since people have blood, fleas will most certainly jump on us to grab a quick meal. But in virtually all cases they’ll usually forage away and off our skin where they land to feed. This is because they feel vulnerable and unprotected out in the open.

I have seen where fleas have been able to hide in patches of hair, like on the scalp or up in underarm hair. But even in these rare cases the population was quite small and had no chance of thriving long. More importantly, fleas won’t be able to survive the normal process of a good shower so for anyone showering daily that uses shampoo, soap and anti-perspirant, the odds of a flea living more than a day is pratically zero.

Here is a direct link to our flea article which goes over all the gory details of just what they want, where they like to live, how fast they can multiply and how to control local infestations:

http://www.flea.net/flea-control

If you review our FLEA CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll learn that fleas typically breed on the pet and in the house. It’s important these areas are protected so if you haven’t yet taken care of the home, do so in one of the ways our article explains. Only then will your puppy be free and clear of this nagging pest.

In our article you’ll also learn of several products we have which are designed specifically for the itchy sensations pets feel following flea bites. At this point I recommend looking for fleas on the pet and don’t just judge based on them scratching. Flea bites will cause pets to itch for weeks but does not mean the fleas are still active. The only way to know for sure will be to see some on the pet and if you do, then use some of the products we have listed in our article. They will definitely work and they can be used as needed.

Lastly, I also suggest you start using something to relieve the itch your puppy is now experiencing. The OXY MED is excellent and when combined with the MELALUCA SHAMPOO, you’ll be able to provide some much needed relief for your pet which will make them more comfortable. In th end you’ll learn it’s really about keeping your home and yard flea, tick, mosquito and gnat free. By reducing these pests in and around the home, you and your pets will be a lot happier.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Flea Control Article:  http://www.flea.net/flea-control

Oxy Med:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/oxy_med_itch_relief.html

Melaluca Shampoo:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1238.html

I was looking at your website and would like to ask what you would recommend for the flea problem I’m currently having.

I have 2 cats which spend some time in the backyard. This is a horrible season for fleas, as I’ve never experienced such a problem in the 15 years I’ve had my cats.

About a month ago, I began noticing my cats scratching more than usual and started seeing flea dirt around the house. I applied Frontline Plus to my cats and they seem to be doing ok…not scratching as much but I am experiencing a big problems with fleas in the house, of course, in the places they hang out which is my bedroom and the kitchen. I have been treating the kitchen which amounts to spraying 3-4 times (once a week). The flea dirt is much less but it’s not gone completely. The big problem is my bedroom. I’ve sprayed the floors in against the walls, in corners, even on my dresser. Seems better now. But, the biggest challenge is the closet. My cats have a habit of running into my closet which means that my closet and all it’s contents must be treated too. My closet is full of clothing, much of which requires dry cleaning only. There are also many boxes, shoes on the floor, etc. This is a nightmare. How can I rid my closet of fleas without having to take my clothing to the cleaners or having to wash every single item? What about my shoes? Please advise if there’s a painless way of handling this. Thanks so much, R.

If you take some time to review our FLEA CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll learn the most important thing about controlling fleas is to get control of the flea cycle. More importantly still is being able to do this by treating the key area or areas where it’s happening. No doubt it’s been happening on the pets. At this time your treatments of the cats with Frontline should be helping. However, as our article explains, there is no doubt a problem anywhere your cats have had access to roam. This explains why you continue to see fleas on them. Everytime they enter areas where the fleas have been breeding, they’ll get new ones on them. Remember, the Frontline takes days to kill fleas so even though new fleas will die once they land on your pets, they’ll still be biten and have to endure the discomfort of the fleas presence until you rid them from your home and yard.  And though you feel the bedroom and closet are problem areas, I am 100% sure the entire home must be treated with equal diligence, along with the outside, if you wish to rid yourself of this pest.

Another important point you’ll learn in our article is that fleas don’t leave host pets. In other words, the thing that will infest your home is the flea eggs which fall off the pet and not the adult fleas since they don’t ever want to leave their home (which is on your cats). Doing this will result in their quick death (they’re not very mobile and do not migrate anywhere) so instead they try very hard to stay on the targeted host at all times. So how does your home get infested? It gets infested from all the eggs that are dropping off your cats as they walk around your property, both inside and outside, and these eggs can easily number in the thousands since one flea will lay hundreds of eggs. Once they hatch and go through their first 3 stages, they’ll lay in wait as flea pupae and hatch only when target animals (people and pets) come close enough to them. And since they can stay in this stage for upwards of a year, it can take a long time for the cycle to run it’s course. All the while these hatching pupae will be seen on you and your pets and the general feeling is that the infestation will never end but rest assured it can if you do the right treatments. And just what are the right treatments? Using products that will last long enough to control both new eggs and larvae as they are introduced in the flea environment.

The most important point I’m making here is that even if you did have fleas in your closet, they would be limited to living in the rug below all your clothes and shoes as explained in our article. And though you might think you need to treat these items, the real target of your treatments should be the carpeting. Based on the problem you’ve described and the information you’ve included, I’m confident for your home the best approach will be our ONCE A YEAR FLEA POWDER combined with 4-6 FLEA TRAPS placed throughout the entire home. No doubt this will solve the problem though it will take several weeks for all the pupae to hatch as our article explains. However, this is perfectly normal. As long as the powder is installed you’ll have something working continuously at killing the flea eggs and larvae which is paramount to solving the problem. Eventually the pupae will run out and since the powder will be stopping larvae from becoming pupae, the torture will finally end.

Lastly, in the yard, apply some BIFEN GRANULES followed up with some CYONARA RTS sprayed over the top. The granules will last a month or two providing long term control and the Cyonara will kill off anything that’s hatched our right now. I would recommend reapplying the granules every two months too till the problem is resolved.

Here are direct links to the products and information mentioned above:

Flea Control Artilce:  http://www.flea.net/flea-control

Once a Year Flea Powder:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page23.html

Flea Traps:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page22.html

Bifen Granules:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page242.html

Cyonara RTS:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/cyonara_rts.html