I believe that being “paranoid” of fleas is a bit over kill but I do believe you should be concerned based on your message. The fact is a good 20-30% of the people we help each year get fleas yet they do not own a pet. So how does this happen? There are many reasons for this and several are covered in our FLEA CONTROL ARTICLE. As you’ll learn, it’s not the clothing that’s the problem but rather the surrounding environment where you live. I suggest you read through it for now as this will enable you to better understand this pest and how to handle future issues with it should you  encounter another infestation.

That being said, would it be worth doing some treating in or around the home to prevent fleas? Yes. In general, any kind of preventive pest control is smart and no doubt this applies to fleas. By treating ahead of the problem, you’re able to use a lot less, not have to keep applying it and save the aggravation of dealing with the pest. And based on where you’re seeing animal activity, I suggest you set out some BIFEN GRANULES as a way to prevent anything from happening. If you apply these 2-3 times a year, you should be able to keep all the local perimeter pests under control including ants, crickets, grubs, fleas, etc.

As for the home, I suggest setting out some FLEA TRAPS. They last many years, cost very little and can do a great job “alerting” you to any problem that may be developing. This way you can act accordingly before it’s too late. But should you treat inside? I would say this is not necessary. But if you feel you must do something, the least toxic, longest lasting product to apply that would stop fleas from living in your carpeting would be the ONCE A YEAR FLEA GRANULES. Odorless and easy to apply, they’re a good choice given the conditions you’re in.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Flea Control Article:  http://www.flea.net/flea-control

Bifen Granules:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Flea Traps:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/electric/flea-trap

Once a Year Flea Treatment:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/first-defense-20-ounce-jar

We rescued an injured feral cat last year. She’s somewhat friendly, she still wont let us come near her. We tried a tranquilizer pill (in food), but she wouldn’t touch it. Is it still possible to eventually break the flea life cycle? Are we doomed?

If the feral cat is left untreated, it will no doubt continue to have issues on itself. But if the home is properly treated, any eggs falling off her should not be able to develop (in theory). This means only the feral should continue to have problems because as our FLEA CONTROL ARTICLE explains, fleas will not leave their host so even if the feral does have active fleas, they’ll be content to stay on her where they should live their life and die.
Now if you’re still seeing fleas in the home or on any of your other cats, that would mean there is something not working with either their treatment or the treatment of the home. And if that’s the case, I suggest you first get some of our FLEA TRAPS installed and start monitoring the situation inside to see where the focal point is for the ongoing issue. If you’re able to identify a key location where activity continues, get it treated the best way possible which our article will no doubt cover (for carpeting, tile, cement, hardwoods, etc.).

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Flea Control Article:  http://www.flea.net/flea-control

Flea Traps:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/electric/flea-trap

It will. But if you review our FLEA CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll learn that in fact clothing is rarely if ever a place where one would have flea eggs laid. As our article explains, fleas want to live on their host. In most cases this will be a pet. But when local populations get large, there will usually be a problem in the home or surrounding yard as well. These local infestations will usually lead to people getting bit when walking around the premises. But will the fleas stay on these people and lay eggs? No.

In summary, there is no reason to “waste” hot water all for the sake of trying to rid clothing from fleas. Normal wash cycles will do the job. But if you have a local flea infestation, you’ll need to start an integrated flea control program as our article explains if you want them gone.

Flea Control: http://www.flea.net/flea-control

Flea Trap (great tool to set out to see if you have local activity on the ground): http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/electric/flea-trap

First the easy answer; treating the home with one of the methods listed in our FLEA CONTROL ARTICLE will do the job. Since you just got the kitten, I strongly recommend the ONCE A YEAR FLEA TREATMENT combined with at least 1 FLEA TRAP. This process is both easy and highly effective.

Second, puppies or kittens under the age of 12 weeks old are at a disadvantage for treating since there are almost no remedies that have animals this young on the label. The only item we know is safe to use is ECO EXEMPT. Essentially made from food, this item is federally exempt and considered a low impact type product. As such it has a lot of label advantages including a section that allows for the treatment of pets with no age restrictions.

Here are direct links to the products and information mentioned above:

Flea Control Article:  http://www.flea.net/flea-control

Once A Year Flea Treatment:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/first-defense-20-ounce-jar

Flea Trap:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/electric/flea-trap

ECO Exempt:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/liquid/eco-excempt-gal

The first thing you should do is read our FLEA CONTROL ARTICLE. It will provide details regarding why it is that fleas will most times target one person along with all the treatment options you have available using the best products now on the market. As you’ll learn, you don’t need a pet to get fleas and if left untreated, the problem will only get worse and worse.

Flea Control Article:  http://www.flea.net/flea-control

Fleas are no doubt quite active this year. And since you’ve not had prior experience treating the problem, I suggest you start by reading our online FLEA CONTROL ARTICLE. This will help you become familiar with this pest and by understanding how it behaves, you’ll be prepared for the fight that’s about to “go down”. Unfortunately this pest cannot be controlled with just 1-2 treatments and in fact, it’s one of the toughest to control in and around the home.

Additionally you’ll learn that flea control will involve actively treating the pet and the home and in some cases even the yard. Once your read our article you’ll learn the various control options available and will have to make a decision on which to employ. That will at least get you started. But be forewarned that flea control can many times take weeks and even months in order for the flea cycle to run it’s course so don’t become dismayed or impatience. The lesson learned will be that a little bit of protection set out early in the year (spring time) can really help stop them from ever getting like you’re now experiencing.

Our article will cover all topics and has links to the various products we recommend so everything you’ll need will be just a click away. We even have “anti itch” meds for the pet with flea bites so there is no doubt some relief available for the pet too.

Flea Control Article:  http://www.flea.net/flea-control

First, all the flea treatments recommended in our FLEA CONTROL ARTICLE are safe around people and pets when used properly and as we describe. And to make sure you use them correctly, be sure to view the “safety videos” you’ll find on every product page. These short clips cover all the protective measures one should do to insure you safely handle, mix, apply and store our products.

Second, the flea treatments you are using are not to blame for the current situation. As you’ll learn by reading our article, flea control cannot be accomplished by just treating the pet. A complete flea program is needed once you get infested and this includes treating the yard and home. Once you get going with our program I’m sure you’ll see results because you’ll be dealing with the problem at all sources. Right now it sounds like you’re only treating the pet and since it’s more common for the home to be the “flea generator”, the pet will continue to have fleas until you stop the fleas from reproducing in the living environment.

Flea Control:  http://www.flea.net/flea-control

You didn’t mention if you had fleas when you left or not. This is important. If there were no fleas, you might be okay. But if you had even one flea in that apartment, it could very well be real bad for anyone trying to live there for many months to come. If you take some time to read through our FLEA CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll learn that adult fleas die quickly. Usually within 1-2 weeks any that are hatched will be dead. But they’re not the problem.

The problem fleas will be the ones in their pupae stage. These can stay in this stage for months (even years) and only come out when they need to come out. And as our article explains, a vacant room will not cause them to come out so that means if you left fleas developing when you vacated the apartment, they’ll be primed and ready to pop in 1-2 months. Worse yet for anyone moving in there, getting rid of the infestation will be nightmare with no pet around to absorb the hatching adults. I can’t tell you how many landlords have had infestations left behind from tenants with pets. It’s probably 25% of our flea business!

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Flea Control Article:  http://www.flea.net/flea-control

Flea Life Cycle:  http://www.flea.net/flea-control#flea_cycle

This is an easy one. If you read through our FLEA CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll learn once the pet left, the developing fleas will have no place to go but focus in on people. Until all the pupae in your apartment are gone, expect more of the same.

You’ll also learn in our article there is no way to kill flea pupae and the only way to get rid of them is to vacuum and/or wait for all of them to hatch. The good news is hardwood floors are easy to vacuum and clean which will effectively remove all the flea eggs, larvae and pupae. This will help tremendously. But I also suggest you set out 2-4 FLEA TRAPS to help speed the process by getting any pupae left behind to hatch sooner rather than later.

Lastly, there is usually no need to treat when one only have hardwood floors so I see no need to change that approach now. Adding to the list of reasons not to treat is the fact that you’re pregnant so as I see it, a good vacuuming and some Flea Traps will be your best solution.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Flea Control Article:  http://www.flea.net/flea-control

Flea Traps:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/electric/flea-trap

If you review our FLEA CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll learn that pretty much any animal in the yard can host fleas. And if any animal with fleas is moving through the yard, no doubt some flea eggs will be falling into the turf. From there the flea cycle will have begun and at that point, people and pets will become targets.

Now that your dog is hosting fleas, no doubt the inside of the home will be next to start hosting fleas and the flea cycle. At this time I suggest you take a proactive approach by treating the home, yard and pet. Flea season is just underway and as our article explains, getting treatments done sooner rather then later is the best approach.

Flea Control Article:  http://www.flea.net/flea-control

It would depend on the problem. If I was to see active fleas in the yard, I would consider this to be bad problem. In other words, if I were to walk casually through my property and get 1-5 fleas on me at most anytime of the day or night, this would be a really bad infestation that needs fast acting products applied. For a problem like this I’d apply the BIFEN GRANULES followed by CYONARA RTS over the top. I’d expect to spray with the Cyonara every 4-7 days and keep spraying until I was able to walk outside without seeing any. As our FLEA CONTROL article explains, pupae will be hatching for some time following the treatment which is why I would keep liquid spraying.

For the remainder of the summer I’d apply granules every 30 days to make sure they didn’t come back. I wouldn’t keep spraying the Cyonara but I would have some on hand ready if needed since a resurgence could happen and I’d want to avoid that at all costs.

But if you were spraying for prevention, the products and frequency of treatments would be different. Treating before there is a problem is always best and when doing so, one can avoid having to a lot of extra work and cost. For this I’d probably just apply the Bifen Granules every 60 days and expect them to do the job. But if the property had a history of problems. I’d still apply the Bifen but then spray over the top with the NYLAR which is a growth regulator. Nylar doesn’t have to be used too often. Generally only 1-2 treatments a season will do the job. And since it works on other pests like ants and mosquitoes, it can really help keep pests minimized in the yard.

The moral of the story and something we try to point out all the time is that of all the pests one can get in the home or yard, the flea is the one that be so easy to control if you do preventive maintenance to keep them in check. But if you let the problem develop and get out of hand, they can be one of the most frustrating pests to control because once that happens, there is no way you’ll be rid of them anytime soon. Hopefully you’ll be treating for prevention rather than curative; the time, energy and cost savings between the two is significant not to mention the level of frustration and aggravation one will experience once they get a flea problem.

Here are direct links to the products and information mentioned above:

Bifen G:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Cyonara:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

Flea Control: http://www.flea.net/flea-control

Nylar:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/igr/igr-nylar

Go with the ONCE A YEAR FLEA POWDER and FLEA TRAPS. By far the most effective. Combine this with the fact that it’s odorless, nothing that will cause you to have to evacuate the house for any length of time and that it won’t hurt the carpet, this is really the best way to treat. The Traps will really help speed up the removal of the pupae too so be sure and have enough installed.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Once a Year Flea Treatment:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/first-defense-2-lb

Flea Traps:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/electric/flea-trap

Inside Flea Control:  http://www.flea.net/flea-control#once-a-year-treatment

Checking for fleas is easy. As our FLEA CONTROL article explains, just take a seat on the sofa and wait. If there are fleas active, you’ll see them jump on you right away. Put on a white shirt, shorts and socks to help make them stand out better.

At night, set out a FLEA TRAP which will catch a wide range of biting pests. It’s easy to employ and costs just pennies a day to use. As our article explains, it will really help reduce the local population.

Lastly, if the problem gets worse or if the fleas move to another part of the house, you’ll need to do some flea control using the products listed in our article.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Flea Control:  http://www.flea.net/flea-control

Flea Trap:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/electric/flea-trap

Yes and no. Yes, freezing temps will kill both adult and larvae fleas that might be on the fabric if you keep it outside for 24 hours. But as our FLEA CONTROL ARTICLE explains, the adults and larvae are really only 25-40% of the problem. If you currently have a flea infestation, the only way to get rid of them will be to employ one of the control methods we have listed in our article. And this will have to be done where the fleas are laying their eggs which is usually inside the home or on the resident pet.

To read up more on just what you’ll need to do, review our article posted here:  http://www.flea.net/flea-control