First, there is no need to “kill the grass” or put you or your pets in any danger by over exposing them to something too strong. A proper flea control program can handle any problem and not pose a threat to people, pets or the environment. As our FLEA ARTICLE explains, the secret is dealing the problem directly. And though treating the pets can help, rarely will this alone solve the infestation so in the end what we find is that most people fail to handle all the problem areas that will need attention which is why the fleas persist.

Second, you don’t cite the size of the yard but I’m assuming the area the pets stay is in the fenced area. Treat this with BIFEN GRANULES first. Next, spray over the top with ESFENVALERATE and NYLAR. This combo will get immediate results and if you treat every 30-45 days, nothing will be able to live or develop in the treated area.

Lastly, if the pets come inside you’ll need to treat with one of the options we have listed in our article. Over the years we have found that people will many times treat the pet and the home but neglect the yard. In other cases we’ve seen where they’ll treat the yard and the home but neglect the pet. In all these cases, the fleas have remained and that’s because these people weren’t treating all the potential problems. So if the pets come inside, you’ll need to treat in there as well.

In summary, if you stay the course with the products we have listed in our article (which are all professional grade pest control products), I’m sure you’ll get the desired results. The key is treating all areas and treating on that 30-45 day schedule. In all cases of ongoing problems we find that people aren’t treating all the areas, they’re not treating frequently enough or they’re not mixing the products at the right rate. In this case I’m leaning toward not enough and not all the areas as the main cause. So if you keep up the Frontline for the pets but step up the effort in the yard and home, I’m sure you’ll knock the fleas out sometime in 2012 for sure.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Bifen Granules:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Conquer: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/conquer-esfenvalerate

Nylar: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/igr/igr-nylar

Flea Article: http://www.flea.net/flea-control

If you read our FLEA CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll learn fleas will gladly hitch a ride on any person that comes close to them. So if you have cats living under your house with fleas, they no doubt forage around the house and when they do, fleas will dispersed everywhere they go. In other words, they’ll be dropping flea eggs, pupae and adults where they walk. And this means when you pass a location where they’ve been, you no doubt will be in the range of getting a flea to jump on you.

At this point the flea will stay with you as long as they’re comfortable. So when you go inside, they’ll probably stick on you till you relax on a chair or couch or bed. So seeing them in your bed is no surprise and to be expected as long as you have cats living under the house and no flea treating is being done outside where it no doubt most matters.

To stop the problem, you’ll have to treat the key nesting locations (where the fleas are reproducing). This is true whether you get rid of the cats or not. You see, fleas will most likely thrive where a bunch of cats are living but they don’t need them to survive; they’d do fine on their own. So even if you were to remove the cats, you’ll still have the fleas and you’ll still have to treat. This is why almost half of our customers are people who don’t have pets!

So how do you need to treat? Several options listed in our article could be employed given your situation. For starters, I’d get as much of the are under the home treated. If you cannot access the area directly, use a HOSE END sprayer to spray the ESFENVALERATE and NYLAR. Do this every month and once the problem is under control, you can move to a once a quarter treatment so they don’t return.

For the home, I’d start with nothing more than some FLEA TRAPS. This way you can monitor the activity inside to determine if you do in fact have to treat. In our article we talk about vacuuming hardwood floors as a sure way to get rid of any adults, eggs and pupae so if you follow that regime, you should be able to keep them under wraps without having to spray. But if your traps start picking up more than 1-2 fleas a week, it would mean you’ve got something happening inside which would warrant a treatment.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Flea Control Article: http://www.flea.net/flea-control

Hose End Sprayer:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/sprayers/gilmour-20g-390

Esfenvalerate:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/conquer-esfenvalerate

Nylar:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/igr/igr-nylar

Flea Trap: http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/electric/flea-trap

You could have a flea infestation. And what I mean by “could” is that yes, fleas could be reproducing in the home. As you no doubt you understand from reading our article that fleas will commonly infest carpeting and furniture. Once this starts it’s safe to say you’ll have fleas and most definitely a flea infestation but the one thing I can also say about a flea infestation is that one can usually tell. That means if they’re actively living and breeding in your home, it would be easy to find one. Heck, it would be easy to find a lot! And here’s how you can try.

Simply put on a pair of white socks and walk around the home for a while. Do this on a day you plan on being around the house for a few hours. Don’t wear shoes but instead just the socks. No doubt any pupae waiting for a blood meal will hatch at some point or any adults in the living space will surely jump on you and if you’re wearing a pair of long white socks, they’ll end up getting stuck in the fabric and will be easy to see.

Why? Because fleas aren’t active only at night.  They’re active all the time. So that means if you’re experiencing something only when you’re on or in the bed, this pattern could be duplicated anytime of day. And to see if they’re in fact fleas doing the biting, try the white sock approach.

I also recommend setting out some FLEA TRAPS. These will work even better than a pair of white socks because they’ll work 24/7. So if you do in fact have fleas developing in the living area, one of these two approaches will alert you to the problem and from there, you can decide what to do.

The one mistake you don’t want to make is to assume you have fleas because you find some kind of skin irritation. There are so many things that can cause a skin irritation and randomly thinking one insect or another will not prove logical in solving the problem. So for now, you need to find  an insect of some kind before you do any kind of treating. This will enable you to use the right product applied at the right location. More importantly, it will insure you actually need to treat in the first place.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Flea Traps:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/electric/flea-trap

Flea Control Article:  http://www.flea.net/flea-control

It will. But if you review our FLEA CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll learn that in fact clothing is rarely if ever a place where one would have flea eggs laid. As our article explains, fleas want to live on their host. In most cases this will be a pet. But when local populations get large, there will usually be a problem in the home or surrounding yard as well. These local infestations will usually lead to people getting bit when walking around the premises. But will the fleas stay on these people and lay eggs? No.

In summary, there is no reason to “waste” hot water all for the sake of trying to rid clothing from fleas. Normal wash cycles will do the job. But if you have a local flea infestation, you’ll need to start an integrated flea control program as our article explains if you want them gone.

Flea Control: http://www.flea.net/flea-control

Flea Trap (great tool to set out to see if you have local activity on the ground): http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/electric/flea-trap

Yes and no. Yes, freezing temps will kill both adult and larvae fleas that might be on the fabric if you keep it outside for 24 hours. But as our FLEA CONTROL ARTICLE explains, the adults and larvae are really only 25-40% of the problem. If you currently have a flea infestation, the only way to get rid of them will be to employ one of the control methods we have listed in our article. And this will have to be done where the fleas are laying their eggs which is usually inside the home or on the resident pet.

To read up more on just what you’ll need to do, review our article posted here:  http://www.flea.net/flea-control

If you review our FLEA CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll learn there are many different species of fleas active in the USA. Though most have names that seem to indicate they might be “native” to a specific animal, in fact most all can cross populate. In other words, a cat flea will find a dog to be an ideal host. A rat flea can easily feed on a bird; a human flea can live on a cat. As you may imagine, with this unique capability it’s entirely possible you have an “off” popular flea that’s seemingly very active this year. And if this particular species is a flea that’s not too common in your region, it could well come across as a “new” species. But is it something different from what we already have? I doubt it.

Now to back up that scenario it is safe to say the fleas have been bad this past year. My own observation is simple: we had more rainfall in 2009 which continued into 2010 and in my pest control experience (which exceeds 30 years), I’ve seen a direct link to the amount of rain and the general population of certain insects. And the flea is one that seems to be directly related to rainfall in a “congruent” sort of way. Translation? The more rainfall we get around the nation the more the flea population seems to explode.

At this point I suggest you start getting control of this problem by first changing flea strategies with your cat. For starters, I’d get some of the OXY ITCH RELEIF for your cat along with the MELALUCA SHAMPOO. I also recommend not putting that concentrated material directly on her anymore but instead opt for a more gentle product like the WATER BASED FLEA SPRAY. No doubt your pet will be better off since this is a more gentle approach and in the long run, it will do the job at a lot less of the cost.

As for the house; no doubt you need to isolate any area that might be a problem. To do this you’ll need to install some FLEA TRAPS in the home. They’ll no doubt help to isolate and monitor the local activity so that any room or area still showing flea activity can be treated. I’m not sure what you’re attempting to accomplish with the caulking and spackling since fleas don’t migrate or travel; as our article explains they only reside on hosts and their environments so you can’t “seal” them out since they can’t get in even if you kept your doors and windows wide open. The fact is with fleas they need something in the home to breed on and in most cases this starts with the pet. From there it will move to carpets, bedding, couches, chairs, blankets and other parts of the home out in the open but most definitely not in cracks or crevices. With that being said, if the traps begin to collect fleas in one region of the house, do a good inspection to figure out what is allowing them to breed in this area and then treat accordingly.

For those areas, the PRECOR 2000 might be the way to go if you’ve converted everything to hardwood floors. It’s good for all the furniture, place rugs and other areas where the pets frequent. As our article explains, the local fleas you have must be reproducing somewhere and since you’ve been treating the pet, I’m sure the cycle is going on somewhere in the home. True the rugs being removed should help but in my experience, this never solves the problem. It basically is just a “band aid” and if you don’t get a real treatment in place within a month or two of the change, you’ll be right back where you started with or without carpeting. Good luck!

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Flea Control Article:  http://www.flea.net/flea-control

Oxy Itch Relief:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/oxy_med_itch_relief.html

Melaluca Shampoo:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1238.html

Water Based Flea Spray:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1235.html

Flea Traps:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page22.html

Precor 2000:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page246.html

It’s funny how many people automatically believe dogs have fleas just because they scratch. The action of scratching, whether by a cat, dog or person, should not be interpreted to mean there is an active flea infestation. Only when you are able to confirm active fleas should you conclude the condition to exist; as our FLEA CONTROL ARTICLE explains, fleas are quite visible and easy to detect on both people and pets when active. In fact, the act of washing a pet will be a great time to see them. If you’ve not noticed them come off the dog or in the wash water during the bathing process, I’m pretty sure there are no fleas causing the itching.

So if it’s not fleas what can it be? The potential list is long. In most cases it’s related to over washing, the type of washing agent being used when washing the pet or a change in their skin condition. When the condition of their skin changes, it’s usually related to something different in their lives like getting older, drier than normal “air” conditions where they live (which commonly exist in homes with AC throughout the house) or possibly even something different they’re now eating. But it could also be something new in their environment like a new toy, a new blanket or piece of furniture they’re contacting or even a new washing detergent being used to wash a blanket or other pet bedding they lie on. The point is the list can be quite long and many times it’s hard to figure out. Consulting a vet can sometimes help but one of the best ways to deal with the problem directly is to employ some anti-itching agents to their skin. This is simple, low in cost and non invasive. In other words, before you start changing their diet and the whole “world” around the pet, consider these two options first.

For starters, we’ve found the OXY MED ITCH SPRAY to help with most any common itch behavior relating to an animals skin. Apply as needed and in most cases, this product alone will resolve the matter. It works instantly and in most cases, problematic scratching is reduced by 90%+ and the matter is resolved within a day or two. Another option is to try a change of washing agent. Use the MELALUCA SHAMPOO which naturally prevents itching. Compared to common pet shampoos, this product soothes the skin and when combined with the Oxy Med, most scratching conditions are cleared up and the skin is allowed to heal and go back to how it was before.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Flea Control Article:  http://www.flea.net/flea-control

Oxy Med:  http://www.bugspray.com/item/oxy_med_itch_relief.html

Melaluca Shampoo:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page1238.html

Fleas are easy to wash out of clothing. If you read through our FLEA CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll learn they commonly jump on people and get on their clothing. But you’ll also learn adult fleas need a host on which to live and clothing isn’t the best place for them to complete their life cycle. In fact, most will die unless they make it a bit further like on the person underneath all that clothing! But if you have been finding fleas on your clothes and want to wash them extra good, get some of the KLEEN FREE CLOTHING DETERGENT. We mostly sell this product for use where Lice have been active but it’s recommended for fleas as well.

Lastly, if you have a Pet showing signs of a flea infestation, chances are high you need to do some flea control either on the pet, in the home or in the yard. Our article goes over all the procedures for this type of problem as well as list the best products to use.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Flea Control Article:  http://www.flea.net/flea-control

Kleen Free:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page999.html

R.

If you review our FLEA CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll learn the real key to breaking any flea infestation is to get their eggs. Our ONCE A YEAR FLEA GRANULES do just that. They’re plenty safe for use in any home – even where a child or other other “sensitive” person might reside. More importantly, they actually works. Get this applied to any carpeting found in the home and you’ll be well on your way to solving your problem.

Additionally, you should deploy 3-4 FLEA TRAPS in the home where flea activity has been noted. They will really help to both collect any foraging fleas as well as alert you to any problem area you may have missed.

Lastly, don’t forget the yard or any pets that have access to the home or the yard. As our article explains, it’s important to get control of the problem throughout the home but if you leave the yard and the pet untreated, no doubt the problem will persist.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Flea Control Article:  http://www.flea.net/flea-control

Once A Year Flea Granules:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page23.html

Flea Traps:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page22.html

Fleas can readily take over any house or apartment if given the chance. Areas left untreated can quickly become a flea breeding ground inside as explained in our FLEA CONTROL article. Cats, dogs and many other common household pets can all contribute to such an infestation and though most people think fleas come from “outside”, in most cases the key to getting rid of the fleas is to treat inside.

Flea infestation remedies range from liquid to aerosol to powder to granules. Clearly products like PRECOR 2000 and PERMETHRIN and NYLAR applied to carpeting and hardwood floors can do wonders at reducing the local flea population. But the ONCE A YEAR FLEA GRANULES are very effective and one of the most mild treatment options currently available. Odorless and long lasting, I suggest this flea remedy quite often and our customers love it. Simply sprinkle it out, broom it into the carpet and you’re done for a good year. Combine this treatment with some FLEA TRAPS and you’ll be able to keep the house protected without having the inconvenience of normal flea sprays.

Fleas on cement present a unique problem in that the cement is not a good surface to spray liquid products. The cement will readily absorb most of the spray so there won’t be much left behind as explained in our Flea Control article. And keeping the pet removed from the area will only allow the problem to continue as explained in our article as well.

To get rid of the fleas, you’ll need to do a few things. First, you need to clean out the garage with a vacuum as well as possible. Since there shouldn’t be anything “holding” onto flea pupae and adults (since the flooring is cement) vacuuming should help to remove a lot of the fleas that are developing there right now. This will have a big positive impact. But vacuuming alone won’t solve the problem.

Next you need to place out some Drione Dust on the floor. This desiccant dust will dehydrate the flea eggs and other stages and effectively break the cycle.

Lastly, place out some Flea Traps to help collect any that might be able to avoid the treated areas. Following the treatment, someone needs to go into the garage and walk about in there daily, at least once a day, to get the pupae to hatch out. After 1-2 weeks, you shouldn’t be seeing any more fleas and at that point you can vacuum again to remove the dust and go back to using the garage like you have been. In the future, apply the Drione every 6 months and should be able to prevent getting another flea infestation out there.

Treating before you actually have a problem would be VERY smart. In fact, if you treat with something now to kill flea eggs in theory you should never get a flea infestation. We have many customers who do this and there is no doubt this is a great way to beat the flea problem before it has a chance to even happen.

As you can see in our Flea Control article, there are a few products that can be used on flea eggs. If you prefer to spray, get the Nylar concentrate and apply a couple of gallons throughout the home using a good Pump Sprayer. This will probably only need to be done once a year, in the spring, and should last the season. At most, two treatments a year would be required. The other option would be the once-a-year-flea-granules. This product is odorless, very safe to use and very effective. Applied to furniture and carpeting, it would undoubtedly stop all the flea eggs from ever developing and in effect stop a flea infestation.